Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Update 4: Visit to Hungary 31 August to 18 September 2012




Robert Bodnar's lineage:


Great grandparents

Maternal
John Rohaly and Anna Chervak
Children:  Anna, Veronika, Theresa (Laszlo Polefko's mother)

George Kucskar and Mary ?
Children: John, others unknown

Paternal
Steven Bucso and ?
Children: Elizabeth, others unknown

Bodnar, unknown
Children: George, others unknown

Grandparents

Maternal 
John Kucskar and Anna Rohaly
Children: Janos, Geza, Helen, Joseph, Francis, Thomas, Margaret, Vincent Veronica

Paternal
George Bodnar and Elizabeth Busco
Children:  William, George, Mary

Parents

William Bodnar and Helen Kucskar
Children: Dolores, William, Robert, Maryllis, Dean, Mark


Robert Bodnar married Jane Williams (Lane Cove, Australia - Parents: Cyril Williams and Mary Cameron)
Children: Alexander, Rebecca, Nicholas, Katherine


Last name ethnicity 
The possible ethnic base of the family names:

Bodnar: Hungarian/Slovakian/Ukrainian, means a cooper in English or one that makes wine barrels as that is the association to the name in these countries.
Busko:  Appears to be a northern Slavic (the land which borders present day Hungary on the north) or Polish name of Bosko.  The Slavic word "bosy" referring to barefoot, so perhaps those who were involved in the crushing of the grapes in vats.

Kucskar:  May be of southern Slavic origin (the land which borders present day Hungary on the south), as the Slavic name Kulcsar means, among other things, a wine caretaker.
Rohaly: Seems to be a derivative of the Hungarian word "roh" - used to describe someone with a ruddy complexion or with red hair.
Chervak:  This name may be Ukrainian in origin however I have not been able to determine a meaning for it.


PROLOGUE

I feel that I have achieved the majority of what I set out to do when I began my ancestor quest.  I have made contact with Hungarian relatives, visited the grave site of my maternal great grandparents, and walked in the villages and on the soil of all our grandparents.  This could only have taken place with the most excellent assistance of Zsuzsi Hal and her thorough research, and regular communication with Laszlo.

From what I learned and saw, I believe our forebears (Bodnar/Kucskar) were involved in the wine industry. Both occupations would have been normal in this region at the end of the 19th century, as they are today.

The history of Hungary appears one of continual conflict, invasion, and war.  The royalty and  wealthy controlled the land, the farmers were considered serfs, however people in trades and crafts were considered and treated as special and valuable.  However, at the end of the 20th century advances in communication and technology allowed the under classes in Europe to see the advantages of relocating to the "New World". I believe this motivated our grandparents to immigrate so that they could provided a better future for their children and future decedents than that which they were compelled to live and endure.

Each night at Laszlo's home I could hear a train's whistle as it made its way south.  I thought that this was how our grandparent probably made their way south to the ports on the Adriatic Sea to get the ocean liners which transported them to the USA.  I also imagined that there must have been a series of families, friends, and agencies to assist them as they would have spoken only Hungarian and possibly a smattering of other eastern European languages - and of course no English when they arrived in the USA. How brave and determined they were.

My disappointment was not being able to find Bodnar, Kucskar, Chervak, and Busco named relatives. Perhaps a much more skillful relative will one day have the ability to complete the quest fully for all of us.

I asked Laszlo if John Rohaly was a Hussar, as I had heard this from my mother many years ago.  Laszlo did not know if he was.  He did said he was very good with horses however. So I think he was probably associated with the Hungarian cavalry in his younger days - perhaps looking after the horses.

My great sadness was when I was paying respect at the mis-marked grave site of John and Anna Rohaly, our maternal great grandparents.  I felt an emptiness and consuming sadness that these two people who provided us DNA and a family line lie in a grave with no markings (photos in following text) recording they are buried there.  They had sacrificed their final resting place on earth to provide a home to their children and grandchildren in troubled and difficult times at the advent of World War 2.

I inquired about the cost of a headstone and covering (as pictured below) and was told it would be about US$ 5,000 or  Hungarian Forint 1,000,000.  Perhaps this is something we can all share in, and to have a proper remembrance of our ancestors.

Laszlo at the grave of his parents. 


ARRIVAL

My much anticipated visit to Hungary became a reality when I landed in Budapest and was met by most welcoming cousin Laszlo Polefko in a marvelous bear hug with kisses on both cheeks.

With him was his partner Ilonka's son in law, Istvan Kazman, and Istvan's 19 year old daughter Eniko (he also has a son, Istvan, 21).  Eniko very graciously translated for all of us as she learned English in high school.  They took me back to Istvan's home and I met Ilonka - a cheerful, witty and very kind person.  Ilonka's daughter Marianne, Istavan's wife, passed away suddenly two years ago from heart disease.

Eniko Kazman, Laszlo Polefko, and Ilonka  Kovacs (nee Kiss) in Budapest

Ilonka Kiss is the maiden name of Laszlo's deceased wife; and his partner Ilonka's maiden last name is also Kiss, and she was married to the now deceased Josef Kovacs.

ISTVAN'S HOME

A most interesting weekend was spent at Istvan's lovely home near the airport.  He lives in a comfortable residential area in a two storey, 4 bedroom brick home.  Beautifully decorated inside with a bright color scheme and indoor plants arranged by his wife.

Istvan Kazman's home. 

Kitchen and dining area.

Lounge room or parlor. 

Father and son, both named Isvan


On Saturday, Ilonka, Laszlo, Eniko and I did a tour of the majestic Parliament House and walked around Budapest.  On Sunday, I took a hop on/off bus tour to see the sights of Budapest on my own.  I also took walks in Isvan's neighborhood in the evening before supper to get a better idea of my surroundings.

Parliament House, Budapest

Heros' Square, Budapest

St Stephen's Cathedral in background, Budapest


LASZLO'S HOME

On Monday, Laszlo, Ilonka, Eniko and I headed off in Laszlo's late model blue Suzuki Swift to his home village of Alsozsolca (near Miskolc - the third largest city in Hungary) which is about a 3 hour drive by expressway #3 northeast of Budapest and about a 40 minute drive from Slovakia.


The home is a single storey brick, 2 bedroom, house with a very large garden at the back. Laszlo grows apples, grapes, potatoes, capsicum (paprika), beans, turnips, and other seasonal veges, plus a variety of herbs.
Illonka and Eniko returning from a bike ride

Kitchen and my wine glass on counter.

Main hall way off front entrance. Bedroom on left, living room far left, laundry and bathroom center, kitchen on right and out of sight second bedroom on close right.

A man rightly proud of his garden.


FOOD

My exposure to Hungarian home cooking by Illonka and Istvan was delightful.  The main meal is taken in the early afternoon (1pm), with a light supper about 7pm.

Breakfast was at 8am and normally consisted of cold cut salami or liverwurst, cheese, cottage cheese, uncut white bread or rolls, sliced tomatoes and capsicum, orange juice, and coffee.  At time we also had scrambled eggs mixed with cheese and mild sausage slices. Ilonka likes a shot of Palinka, a clear fruit brandy ,in the morning, 40-50% alcohol, and as a good guest, I joined her each morning during my visit - this certainly got my day off to a good start.

Lunch (or our main meal) over the entire visit was usually home cooking by Ilonka, and it was delicious and a wonderful variety of Hungarian dishes.  Of course paprika goulash (gulyas), friend and breaded chicken breasts/veal, broiled chicken, boiled/mashed potatoes, noodles, sausages, hot chicken soup, cold fruit soup (a specialty), liver wrapped in bacon, sauerkraut, mixed fresh vegetables (usually from Laszlo's extensive garden), pasta, rice, stuffed cabbage and so forth.  There was always paprika spice powder to "enhance" the flavor of the food.

Outdoor lunch with goulash in the hanging kettle


Supper was normally at 7pm and Ilonka always gave me another shot of palinka to get my digestion working (she abstained).  The meal usually consisted of either leftovers, or cold cuts and bread.  This is when Laszlo had his red wine for the day.  He limits this to 3 glasses and, of course, as a good guest, I joined Laszlo with much gusto in his ritual.


One of the very many toasts and shots of palinka for me.


VILLAGES OF THE GRANDPARENTS, SIGHTSEEING, AND RELATIVES

Laszlo, who is 70 and retired, spent much time before my trip researching what he could about the Bodnar, Kucskar, Rohaly, and Busco families.  His research was enormously frustrated by the lack of state and church records and paperwork due to the destruction and dislocation caused by World War 1 and 2, the Russian Communist occupation in 1944, and the Russian invasion in 1956 during the Hungarian Revolution.  Also, as a result of World War 1, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire was broken up into new countries or sections given to other countries and Hungary lost 43% of its arable land, 58% of it's railroads, 60% of it's forests, 83% of it's iron ore resources, and population by about a third; moreover many villages have had two or three name changes over the years as they were amalgamated or absorbed. 

3 Sept  Leaving Budapest on Highway #3 to the north west we drove about 50 min to Godollo and visited Laszlo's generous and gracious niece Agi, who had morning coffee with us in her beautiful home.



We toured the Royal Palace (1760) in Godollo, the summer retreat for the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and his Hungarian Queen, Elizabeth; truly a magnificently preserved ornate building with a wonderful museum of period pieces, paintings, and art collections of the royal family.  A gem of a place to tour.

From Godollo, we got back on Highway #3 and motored a bit over two hours north west to Laszlo's home in the village of Alsozsolca, near the country's third largest city of Miskolc.


4 Sept  Village of Baktakek, about a 20 min drive south, was our destination today; and this is the village where Joseph Kucskar and Anna Rohaly recorded as last living in before they immigrated to the USA - although the name of the village is different on the immigration forms as it changed twice (originally Ketty then to Szarazkek) since they left at the beginning of the last century.

Zsuzsi identified this village in her research and made telephone calls to people living in it named Kucskar; however none of the people she spoke to knew about any relatives living in the USA or immigrating there years ago.  She also mentioned the name Rohaly to them but no knowledge of this either, however, she was  referred to a retired village man named Gyulas Szadoary who is a long term resident.  He did confirm that a Rohaly family lived in the village years ago and was able to provide the name of Laszlo Polefko and his current location as being related to the family.  He too knew nothing about the Kucskar family.

Typical homes on the main and only street through the village.

Village east end. Taken from hill behind Greek Catholic church.

Village center moving west.

Western end of village.

We saw the home John Rohaly built in 1940 and lived in until his death in 1943, it is now occupied by Gypsies.In the family photo, baby Laszlo is on his mother's lap, surrounded by his sisters, and grandfather John Rohaly in 1941 - his wife Anna passed away a few years earlier.  Laszlo lived in this house for many years with his family.

Home of John Rohaly on main street.



Mother Terezia and children Melania (B 1921), Anna (B 1924), Agnes (B 1929), Gabriella (B 1932) and Laszlo (B 1941).  Only Laszlo survives, Gabriella passed away shortly after I left.  Fortunately, I had the opportunity to meet her in the nursing home.  Her son is a priest and has been her caregiver and guardian.

In the village, we met Gyulas Szadoary and his family.   Gyulas and his wife are both retired teachers, he in engineering and she in history.  They are a very warm, friendly and helpful family.

The home of the Szadoary family in Baktakek

Szadoary family

We visited the Greek Catholic Church where Anna Kucskar (nee Rohaly/Chervak) was baptized and married to John Kucskar in; plus her first child, John, was baptized in 1908 (born and died in 1908)
.
A 15 walk from John Rohaly's house.



This mis-marked grave below in the church cemetery contains the remains of John and Anna Rohaly.  The grave site belonged to Laszlo's father who passed away in 1959 (as in-scripted on the headstone) and when Anna passed away  in the 1930's there was no money to obtain a grave site, so she was buried here as the site was made available to the family.  John spent all his funds on building the house for his children and grandchildren and was buried with his wife in 1943. Laszlo's parents are buried in a nearby site, as his father was re-interned in 1984 when his wife passed away.  I was so very moved standing at this location and whispered thanks and greetings to John and Anna Rohaly from all their offspring who have and are living overseas. 




On the way home, we visited a small community museum in Alsozsolca which had a very interesting display and research on the village in the Middle Ages.

5 Sept  Village of Tornyosnemeti

George Bodnar's last recorded home. A tiny farming village.

Surrounding farm fields.

Village main street and tavern.

Roman Catholic Church on main street.

Main street heading south, church on left.

The village is very close to the border with Slovakia and it is where George Bodnar recorded as living before immigrating to the USA.  

Possible relationship to George Bodnar?

A very old head stone with the Bodnar name in the same cemetary.



In Laszlo's research, he discovered there were no individuals or families named Bodnar living in the village, however a village woman said she had bought, some years ago, the home of a family named Bodnar, who are now all deceased.  The family grave site is pictured above.  The woman recalled that the family said they had relatives living in the USA.

I was told by several Slovaks that the name Bodnar is popular in Slovakia and in the wine region adjoining the border with Hungary there are many families with that surname. We did come across one winery in the Tokaj region a bit south of here that carried the name, unfortunately we were too tight for time to stop.


As a matter of interest, I saw three war memorials and examined the names inscribed on them.  The only family name I came across was Bodnar as seen below on this memorial in one of  the villages surrounding the general area of Miskolc.

Erected for World War 1

World War 1
Added for World War 2.

The tiny farming village of Goncruszka, located about 9 miles or 15 km south of Tornyosnemeti is where Elizabeth Busco, wife of George Bodnar, recorded as living before immigrating.  

A tiny farming village.

Surrounding farm land.

The Zemplen Hills in the background.

Roman Catholic Church in village center.

No families by the name of Busco or Bodnar lived in the village.  However, a search of the church cemetery revealed a head stone and plot of a Busco family.



Laszlo insisted we visit the medieval city of  Kosice in Slovakia and it's ancient cathedral as we were so very close to it.  I told him I did not have my passport with me and he said "...it doesn't matter, you have a Hungarian name, drink like a Hungarian, so you are Hungarian and don't need a passport!"  So he just drove through the border crossing and I waved and smiled at the reclining guards.  Kosice is truly a beautiful city and a warm spring spa resort area.  The cathedral is magnificent and was undergoing repair and maintenance.  This is a place I will like to visit again and spend much more time.

Main square with medieval cathedral in background

6 Sept  Fuzer Castle visit, which is over an hour drive north east of Laszlo's home.  The castle is near the current town of Fuzerradvany on the edge of the Zemplen Hills (near Slovakia) and dates from the 13th century.  However it was the Austrians who destroyed it with artillery fire in the 17th century.  We parked the car in a rest area about two thirds the way up and hiked to the summit; and wandered around the ruins of this ancient fortress originally built to repel the Mongols and later the Turks.

Fuzer Castle dominating the surrounding valley.

Tavern and guest house at the foot of the mount.

Looking south from the ruined Fuzer Castle

We continued our tour with a stop at Karoloyi Palace, the summer home of the famous and powerful Rakoczi family, also near the small town.  It was not open to the public, so we walked around and enjoyed the ambiance of this beautiful 17th century building and gardens.

Magnificent architecture.  

Gardens in the background.

Then we were off  south to the town of Tokaj to partake of a tasting of sweet and sultry local wines at the Rakoczi Cellar in the Rakoczi Hotel (15th Century), where they have up to 1,000 vintages stored.  The tasting was done in the cellar of course.

Very cozy and superb sweet wines.

Main street of Tokaj

The following building is under renovation, however notice that what you are looking at is a painted canvas to give the appearance of the completed building and blend it in with the architecture of the town.



7 Sept  Touring the city of Eger
Eger is a large city in the wine area (noted as the home of the famous Bulls Blood or Bikaver red wine) and is regarded as a "jewel box" with so much to see and do.  A story told to me about how the wine got the name Bulls Blood is that in the 16th century when the Turks were attacking the castle over a period of weeks, the  Hungarian defenders had red beards which the Turkish troops thought was the blood of bulls they drank to make them so brave; but it was the red wine which supplemented the scarce water reserve they had. We wandered around and looked at shops and historical sites; and had lunch in the plaza that is behind us in the photo below.

Roman Catholic church in city square

Shopping and dining part of square.

Eger Castle was originally erected in the 12th century to protect against the Mongols.  In the 16th century, it also repelled various invasions of the Turks, but eventually fell to them.

Main gate of castle.

Internal battlements, remnants of Roman temple, and a stage for a band or play.

Street leading to main castle gate.

A 16th century Turkish minaret is the last remaining of the many built during the years of Turkish occupation. Laszlo and I climbed the super skinny minaret, twisting and puffing our way up the very claustrophobic 97 steps to the prayer calling balcony.  A lovely view of the city surrounds, but neither of us wanted to walk around it with only a thin hand rail for support - yeah, we chickened out, but at least made it to the top!!!

City and minaret from castle battlements

This was a very tight squeeze with only dim electric lighting.

On the outskirts of Eger is the Valley Of Beautiful Women which contains many wine processing companies located in huge caves cut into the sides of the valley.  Laszlo wanted to fill up his 9 gal (35 liter) plastic container with bulk red wine at his favorite supplier Juhasz, pictured below.  I was honored to taste the wine chosen for quality after some of it was hosed out from a huge barrel by two young lads.  Very smooth and acceptable it was.  Laszlo with the wine master pictured below.

Establishment of choice for Laszlo.

A friendly wine master. I bought 2 bottles of red and enjoyed them in Budapest.

Young fellow on top!

Young fellow on bottom filling Laszlo's container.

Certainly extra large barrels of wine!

What else to do, but do a bit of wine tasting in a nearby cul de sac with side by side picturesque taverns.  Mind you there weren't too many beautiful women wandering around when we started our tasting, however they were all beautiful when we left :-)

So many to choose from.

A good choice.

8 Sept  The Baradla-Domica Cave complex in the Aggtelek Hills (15.5 miles/25 km of tunnels with 3.7 miles/6 km into Slovakia) was our destination today, which is north west of Laszlo's home.  In the Giants Hall cavern we were treated to a live organ recital and some pre-recorded pop music with singing; the acoustics were amazing.  Choir and live pop music performances are often done there for a few hundred lucky attendees.  The cave had wonderful stalagmites and stalactites and a rushing stream running through it.   Our tour lasted well over an hour and was so very interesting.  Pictured is the cavern with seating and the entrance to the cave complex.

Seating inside the Giants Hall cavern.

Entrance is in the distance to the left, with steps below ground level.

On the way back to Laszlo's home, he took me to the TV tower complex overlooking the nearby city of Miskolc for the outstanding views of the city and surrounding country side.  In the early days, the tower contained a restaurant with spectacular views, but is is no longer in operation.  


After lunch in the garden of Laszlo's home, Eniko returned to Budapest with her dad as I thought by then that the three of us could communicate well enough.  They had some English words, I some Hungarian words, and we had dictionaries too.  Of course, not to forget the hilarious pantomime of hand and face communication, and drawings.  It wasn't easy but it was fun and it worked; although we never could have proper and in depth discussions, and so much of what we wanted to ask or say to each other was lost.  However, we all tried hard, laughed and grew very close together by doing so.

An outdoor main meal, with goulash in the hanging kettle - oh, so yummy!

9 Sept  Destination was nearby Lillafured, a very scenic and picturesque resort area outside of Miskolc.  The tourist area is dominated by the chateau like Hotel Palota (1905) which is regal in appearance with fancy turrets, formal gardens, stained glass windows, and an enormous fireplace; and it has a waterfall next to it and overlooks a lake surrounded by a heavily forested area.

Main entrance to hotel.

The rear of the hotel, with outdoor dining and gardens.

Taking a narrow gauge train to the hills area we stopped off for lunch at a trout fishery business with an adjoining kiosk and covered seating area.  The kiosk sold deep fried fresh trout served with French fries, coleslaw, and bread - all very delicious.  Beer, wine and sort drinks available. 

Here comes our train!

Laszlo and Ilonka in the carriage waiting for me to board.

Yummy, fried fish and a beer for Ilonka and me.

A most pleasant outdoor ambiance and a simple and tasty lunch.

Returning home, we stopped to tour Diosgyor Castle (13 century) in Miskolc - those nasty Austrians severely damaged it in the early part of the 18th century.  It contained a small, but impressive wax museum with medieval costumes and weapons.

Bust of King Louis the Great who reigned between 1342-82. During his reign Hungary reached the peak of its political influence.  He was a warrior king who led from the front, and fought most of his great battles against the Republic of Venice, and was the first Hungarian king to engage the Turks in combat.

The main court yard in the castle, with battlements.

Hungarian knights in armor.

10 Sept  We visited Laszlo's cousin Veronica (granddaughter of Veronica Rohaly) and her husband Lajos Mester in the tiny village of Selyp, about a 90 min drive south, near the town of Szirak, in the Matra Hills.   Veronica fed us a most delicious meal as pictured.  Lajos brought out the palinka to exchange shots with me, and also a delightfully soft, homemade rose wine.  Veronica brought out old photos of Grandma/Grampa Kucskar, wedding photos of Aunt Marge/John and Uncle Vin/Joyce, and cousin Ed and his mom Betty and also Aunt Jeanne.
  
A lovely home in a small village.

Two types of sausages, cold cuts of meat, boiled potatoes in a tomato based sauce, and a salad of tomatoes and cucumbers in vinegar.

Lajos is a famous player of a traditional Hungarian string instrument, and he gave us pleasure by playing and singing a stirring and fast paced folk song.  The below magazine article, in Hungarian, tells about his proficiency and career.  He is a very happy and energetic 79!

A maestro at play!!

A Hungarian magazine article about Lajos.

Holloko Village in the Matra Hills was the historic site for today, about an hour drive north of Veronica's home.  A UNESCO World Heritage cultural village, Holloko's 380 residents have maintained their homes in the old 13th century way of building with walls of wattle and daub-interwoven twigs plastered with clay and water. Of course, Holloko Castle (13th century) was destroyed by those Austrians again in the early 18th century.

Still pretty much intact. 

The main street and homes.

On the main cobbled street in the tiny village.

There is a marvelous, but minuscule, doll museum in the cellar of one of the houses on the main village street, with over 200 porcelain dolls in traditional costumes from all across Hungary. They are displayed in glass cases, and each photo below is of a different section of this amazing collection.







Leaving Holloko, we drove about 40 min east to the highest point in Hungary - Kekesteto, 3,327 feet (1,1014 meters) high.  A ski center in the winter with 2 tow lifts and 8 runs, otherwise it caters for hikers and various trails abound.  A 9 storey TV tower is located on the crest and an elevator takes one up to super views of the region.  A red, white, and green painted rock marks the highest point and is the favorite photo taking place.

The highest point in Hungary.

From the TV tower looking east. 

11 Sept  Today started with a 90 min drive east to the spa resort town of Hajduszoboszlo. We spent 5 hours enjoying the mineral spa waters of the Hungarospa Thermal Baths and enjoyed a simple main meal for lunch in the restaurant.  This is the country's largest thermal bathing center and water park.  Hundreds of people there, and most were seniors.  

Two handsome 70 year old gentlemen pool side.

Here we are entering the dark mineral water pool.  Other pools contained filtered mineral water and were thus clear.  Far back is a third pool for swimming only.  There were more spa pools indoors and on the other side of the main building.

Now to find an open space to recline or sit.

We headed home after this, all very relaxed and tired - a nice feeling of goodwill and family made me happy. Ilonka surprised with hot dogs for our supper, and Laszlo and I finished off the homemade and most tasty rose wine gift of Lajos Mester.  I slept very, very well that night, and did not hear the midnight whistle of the train passing some distance from the house.  

In the evening after supper, Laszlo's younger son Istvan visited briefly with his two sons, Tomas (5) and Zoltan (2 and a half).


12 Sept  Today it was a day trip to Debrechen near to the eastern border and close to Romania.  This is the second largest city in Hungary and the home of Szuzsi and partner Tomas.  However, we detoured south first to the town of Poroszlo on Lake Tiza to see the boutique resort owned by Istvan Kazman called Club Thermal Kasterly.  The Club was renovated and Istvan's wife, Marianne, did the decorating and internal designs and managed the resort until her untimely death.  Now Eniko is at university taking courses in hotel management to take over the management, and works there in her free time.

Club Thermal Kasterly

Reception area

Nearby Lake Tisza

Now we were off on Route 33 east for Hortobagy National Park, which recreates the very early days of Magyar settlement.  Unfortunately, the Hungarian cowboys (Puszta) in their blue outfits and whips and horses had finished their season displays.  But we did see many other very interesting things.

Family traditional house

Representing the early Magyars

Ilonka getting cheeky with one of the male Magyars.

Sitting in conference.

Whips for sale, made in Hungary by local craftspeople.

We continued our trip for about 25 min on Route 33 east to Debrechen, a traditionally prosperous city built on the trading routes and having wonderful soil for crops and grazing for cattle.  This city has a very strong Calvinist history, and survived being invaded over the centuries by paying off the Hungarian and Romanian royalty and warlords, and also the invading Turks.  It was in the Calvinist Great Church in 1848, that Louis Kossuth proclaimed Hungarian independence from the Austria.  However, the revolution was crushed in 1849 by empire forces.

The Great Church on Central Square.

Central Square looking from the Great Church front steps.

Where Louis Kossuth proclaimed independence from Austria.

Aranybika Hotel (1915) a landmark Art Nouveau hotel on Central Square

Interesting architecture near Central Square.

13 Sept  We again went to Baktakek and visited Margaret, a daughter of Istvan who is the son of Veronica Rohaly (nee).
Laszlo cousin Veronica with daughter

After lunch at home, we went to visit  Gizi, another of Margaret's daughters.  Her husband is Laszlo Dobos. They are both retired.  We were presented with a most enjoyable late afternoon meal, many toasts with palinka, and smooth red wine. Edina, their older daughter, speaks excellent English, so we had a very good, funny, and interesting conversation all around.

R-L: Laszlo, Gizi, Edina, and her hubby Tomas.

At home that evening, Laszlo's oldest son, also named Laszlo, visited with his 6 year old son Peter.




14 Sept  My leaving day.  I was packed and ready to roll at 830 am as advised.  Tearful farewells and hugs and kisses with my wonderful cousin and his delightful, spirited, and funny partner Ilonka.  Laszlo's son, Laszlo, came to pick me up in his good friend's car for the 3 hr ride to Budapest.  His friend's name is - Laszlo Posen.  He is a businessman and speaks excellent English, so the three of us had a very animated and interesting conversation in the car on the way down.

I stayed in Budapest for 3 nights, and can recommend the Mecure Hotel in central Pest (4 star, clean and reasonably priced on Vaci St.), and left in the early afternoon on the 18th Sept for my return journey.  Budapest is a beautiful ,safe, and cosmopolitan city, with English the first language - as really only Hungarians speak Hungarian. 

All I read about the city was true: a night life that goes on 24/7, a great variety of restaurants open late, music venues, fashion houses, and interesting sites.  The traditional bath/spa of Gellert Hotel and  Szechenyi Baths are a must.  It is a city of lights at night - the Danube river is just so enriched in the evening with the lighted bridges and walkways along the banks.  I highly recommend a visit.

Some random photos of Budapest.

Central Pest taken from Buda Hill 

Traditional horse races in Heros' Square

Fishermen's Bastion on Buda Hill

State Opera House, a Neo-Renaissance masterpiece built in 1884.  Enjoy a performance if possible.  The Royal Box in the center.

New York Cafe, part of the Art Nouveau New York Palace Hotel (quite over the top hotel).  Tasty food, excellent service, and reasonably priced cafe.  Built in 1909 with finance from the New York Metropolitan Insurance Co. - hence the name.

The ceiling above where I was sitting.

Ahh, Fridays, an American chain and some American cooking!

Well, that wraps up my wonderful visit.  I hope to go again in the late Summer of 2014 and see more of the country of my ancestors, Laszlo and Ilonka, Zsuzsi and Tomas, and Budapest.















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